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Walk a long coastal trail, stage by stage

I’m Elif. I walk a long coastal trail in stages and write a letter about each one. I sell stage notes, packing and water guides, an ebook and a course.

Trail Letters, every Tuesday

A free letter every Tuesday: where I walked, where I found water and what I will carry differently next time.

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Fig. 1. Where the last eight letters were written

Trail Letters

One email every Tuesday. Unsubscribe any time.

Hands filling a dented bottle at a stone fountain
Hands filling a dented bottle at a stone fountain

A free letter every Tuesday: where I walked, where I found water and what I will carry differently next time.

Where the water is, and where it is not

No. 438 min read

Hello, walkers,

The question I am asked most is how much water to carry. The answer is that it depends where the next fountain is, so the first thing I do on any stage is find it on the map.

On this trail the villages have stone fountains, often at the edge of the square or beside a small mosque, and the water is cold and good.Note 11 Fountain: a stone tap or spout in a village where anyone can fill a bottle. Between the villages there can be a whole day with nothing. On the long white stages I carry three litres and drink steadily from the first hour, not when I am thirsty.

1 Fountain: a stone tap or spout in a village where anyone can fill a bottle.

I keep a short list in the lid of my pack: the name of every village, whether it has a fountain, and the hours between them.Note 22 Stage: one day’s walk between two villages, usually five to eight hours. It takes ten minutes to write, and it has saved me from more than one dry afternoon.

2 Stage: one day’s walk between two villages, usually five to eight hours.

I fill every bottle at every fountain, even when they are still half full. It takes a minute, and it is the one habit I would teach before any other.

If a fountain is dry, do not wait for it to come back.Note 33 Dry fountain: one that has no water, usually at the end of summer. Walk on to the next one, or back to the last, and drink what you have slowly. I have only done it twice, and both times the walk back was the right choice.

3 Dry fountain: one that has no water, usually at the end of summer.

Try this: next time you plan a stage, write the fountains on the sheet before you write the distance. Next week I will tell you about walking in the cold months.

Happy walking,

Elif

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Hiker resting on a wall by ruins above the sea

About

Hello, I’m Elif

I walk a long coastal trail a few stages at a time, a week in spring and a week in autumn, with a small pack and a very old pair of boots. The trail runs for hundreds of kilometres along white limestone, pine forest and old ruins above the sea, and I am working my way along it at my own pace.

Every Tuesday I write a letter about a stage: where I slept, what I carried and where I found water. What readers asked for most became stage notes, a packing list, a water guide, an ebook and a course on walking a long trail in stages.